Osocalis Rare Alambic Brandy

The explosion of craft distillers in this country is truly amazing, and the availability of a brandy as smooth and flavorful as the Osocalis Rare Alambic Brandy makes it easier to accept that the Chinese are buying up all the Cognac.

This brandy was recommended to me at Weygandt's, which makes a real effort to stock craft spirits. The distillery, near Santa Cruz, describes itself as a second-generation of American craft distillers combining Old World techniques with New World fruit. They imported the alambic still from Charentes, but the grapes are local Pinot Noir, Colombard and Semillon. In fact, they explain on their website, American distillers have an advantage over French producers because they can blend different varietals to get the flavor they want, unlike the strictly delimited appellations in France.

In any case, this brandy, one of the 1,800 bottles produced in Lot No. X, is exquisitely smooth, not sweet but graceful enough to make you think so, with hints of spice in the background. It is great in a snifter, after a meal, or anytime, really.